**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography**Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List“Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times MagazineBarbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life.Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves.Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity.Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

The story behind the hit surfing movie Chasing Mavericks! Surfing legend Frosty Hesson shares the story of his remarkably life and his extraordinary friendship with wunderkind Jay Moriarty.When Richard “Frosty” Hesson was first approached by a young Jay Moriarty in 1990, the skinny kid with a sparkle in his eye only wanted one thing from the icon: his help in becoming a better surfer. Hesson, one of the first to conquer the huge waves off northern California known as Mavericks, recognized that the kid “had a vision.” Jay quickly demonstrated a resolve that reminded Frosty of his younger self, pursuing his goal with a seriousness far beyond his years. His attitude and work ethic earned Frosty’s respect and, eventually, his friendship.Making Mavericks is the inspiring story of their father-son bond and of the challenges that made each of them who they were—surf legends, and the subject of the instant classic surf film Chasing Mavericks.In Making Mavericks, Frosty talks about his turbulent youth spent under difficult circumstances, with parents who tried to find a positive way to handle a child with a passion for water and a disregard for his own safety. Throughout his life he developed principles to live by, principles that would become the core tenets of his teaching philosophy. Most significantly, Frosty talks about how one of his best students, Jay Moriarty, used his philosophy to become a surfing phenomenon, and whose life inspired the phrase, “Live like Jay.”Affecting and poignant, Making Mavericks is a celebration of Hesson’s determination to live with joy and purpose, and his desire to help others do the same.

Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing that any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw has crafted an unprecedented history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. At nearly 500 pages, with 250,000 words and more than 250 rare photographs, The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original. The obsessive nature of this endeavor is matched only by the obsessive nature of surfers, who will pore through these pages with passion and opinion. A true category killer, here is the definitive history of surfing.

In 1996, Allan Weisbecker sold his home and his possessions, loaded his dog and surfboards into his truck, and set off in search of his long-time surfing companion, Patrick, who had vanished into the depths of Central America. In this rollicking memoir of his quest from Mexico to Costa Rica to unravel the circumstances of Patrick's disappearance, Weisbecker intimately describes the people he befriended, the bandits he evaded, the waves he caught and lost en route to finding his friend. In Search of Captain Zero is, according to Outside magazine, "A subtly affecting tale of friendship and duty. [It] deserves a spot on the microbus dashboard as a hell of a cautionary tale about finding paradise and smoking it away." In Search of Captain Zero: A Surfer's Road Trip Beyond the End of the Road is a Booksense 76 Top Ten selection for September/October.

For twenty years, Miki "Da Cat" Dora was the king of Malibu surfers—a dashing, enigmatic rebel who dominated the waves, ruled his peers' imaginations, and who still inspires the fantasies of wannabes to this day. And yet, Dora railed against surfing's sudden post-Gidget popularity and the overcrowding of his once empty waves, even after this avid sportsman, iconoclast, and scammer of wide repute ran afoul of the law and led the FBI on a remarkable seven-year chase around the globe in 1974. The New York Times named him "the most renegade spirit the sport has yet to produce" and Vanity Fair called him "a dark prince of the beach." To fully capture Dora's never-before-told story, David Rensin spent four years interviewing hundreds of Dora's friends, enemies, family members, lovers, and fellow surfers to uncover the untold truth about surfing's most outrageous practitioner, charismatic antihero, committed loner, and enduring mystery.

In the 1970s, a decade before bumper stickers and T-shirts bearing the phrase Eddie Would Go began popping up all over the Hawaiian islands and throughout the surfing world, Eddie Aikau was proving what it meant to be a "waterman." As a fearless and gifted surfer, he rode the biggest waves in the world; as the first and most famous Waimea Bay lifeguard on the North Shore, he saved hundreds of lives from its treacherous waters; and as a proud Hawaiian, he sacrificed his life to save the crew aboard the voyaging canoe Hokule'a. Eddie Would Go is the compelling story of Eddie Aikau's legendary life and legacy, a pipeline into the exhilarating world of surfing, and an important chronicle of the Hawaiian Renaissance and the emergence of modern Hawaii. "Splendid...clear and fascinating."--Greg Ambrose, San Francisco Chronicle"Enlightening...an impressive history...of surfing...of Hawaiian culture both at home and across the world."--Matt Walker, Surfing Magazine "Eddie Aikau's life is a story waiting to be told, and it could not have been told any better than in Stuart Coleman's Eddie Would Go. This is a bestseller in the same way as the The Perfect Storm."--Peter Cole, Big-Wave Surfing Pioneer"It's amazing the impact Eddie had on the surfing world and Hawaii. It touches the community at a real grass-roots level."--Kelly Slater, World Champion Surfer"A meaningful biography of a surfing hero...extraordinary."-Terry Rogers, The San Diego Union-Tribune"Coleman, a surfer himself, does an admirable job of de-mystifying this remarkable man."-Terry Tomalin, The St. Petersburg Times"Fantastic...a treat to read."-Mark Cunningham, Honolulu Weekly Publishers Weekly EDDIE WOULD GO: The Story of Eddie Aikau, Hawaiian Hero and Pioneer of Big Wave SurfingStuart Holmes Coleman. St. Martin's, $14.95 paper (272p) ISBN 0-312-32718-8 ~ Eddie Aikau was the most famous and respected Hawaiian surfer since the legendary Duke Kahanamoku brought surfing to national attention in the 1920s. Coleman's thoughtful and detailed biography is the best look at Aikau's story since the surfer died in 1978 paddling for help after the historic Canoe Hokulea (a twin-hulled boat modeled after the ancient Polynesian vessels that brought the first settlers to the islands of Hawaii) was capsized in a huge storm. Coleman brings his skills as an essayist and poet to weave the many strands of Aikau's life into a coherent picture of how Aikau's story "was also the story of modern Hawai'i." Coleman nicely describes how Aikau-born in 1946 into a "spiritually divided" postwar Hawaiian culture torn between "Hawai'ian roots and American dreams"-helped define a new image of Hawaii in the 1950s and '60s, as part of the first modern surfing expeditions to the Oahu's North Shore and its huge waves at the now-classic Pipeline and Waimea Bay beaches. ("Eddie would go" is now the standard surfing phrase used to determine if a surfer should attempt to ride a particularly daunting wave.) Coleman shows how Aikau's life between 1967 and 1977 was "a strange mix of calm and chaos," with Aikau working as a Waimea Bay lifeguard between local and international surf competitions, culminating in his winning the prestigious Duke Kahanamoku Classic in 1977. But Coleman also smartly observes how Aikau's desire to join the crew of the voyaging Hokulea-which was attempting to show that ancient Polynesian sailors had purposely sailed to the islands-was itself an example of the resurgent interest by Hawaiians to explore and reclaim their cultural identity and further added to Aikau's ongoing status as a Hawaiian hero. Copyright 2003 Reed Business Information.

"Wonderful . . . a moving autobiography, the story of a unique business, and a detailed blueprint for hope." —Jared Diamond, Pulitzer Prize-winning author of Guns, Germs, and SteelIn this 10th anniversary edition, Yvon Chouinard—legendary climber, businessman, environmentalist, and founder of Patagonia, Inc.—shares the persistence and courage that have gone into being head of one of the most respected and environmentally responsible companies on earth.From his youth as the son of a French Canadian handyman to the thrilling, ambitious climbing expeditions that inspired his innovative designs for the sport's equipment, Let My People Go Surfing is the story of a man who brought doing good and having grand adventures into the heart of his business life-a book that will deeply affect entrepreneurs and outdoor enthusiasts alike.

My English comp teacher Mr. Glicksberg says if you want to be a writer you have to—quote—sit on a window sill and get all pensive and stuff and jot down descriptions. Unquote Glicksberg! I don't know what kind of things he writes but I found my inspiration in Malibu with a radio, my best girlfriends, and absolutely zillions of boys for miles. I absolutely had to write everything down because I heard that when you get older you forget things, and I'd be the most miserable woman in the world if I forgot all about Moondoggie and what happened this summer. I absolutely owe the world my story. (And every word is true. I swear.) This is Franzie, part Holden Caulfield, part Lolita. The guys call her Gidget—short for girl midget—and she’s a girl coming of age in the summer of 1957. Based on the experiences of his own daughter, Frederick Kohner's trend-setting novel became an international sensation and turned its irrepressible heroine into an American pop culture icon whose voice still echoes every thrill, every fear, and every hope that every teenager ever had about growing up.

Quit your job, pack your boards, and surf your way down the California coast.... Sound like a daydream? The California Surf Project is the fully illustrated travel diary of two surfers who took this trip of a lifetime. Chris Burkard, a talented photographer, and Eric Soderquist, a professional surfer, cajoled their Volkswagen bus along Highway 1 from the Oregon border to the Tijuana Sloughs and discovered everything the Golden State's legendary coastline has to offer. Relive their incredible adventure of surfing perfect waves, sharing campfires with total strangers, and keeping the bus running with duct tape and prayers in more than 200 gorgeous photographs, soulful text, and a professionally produced thirty-minute DVD.

A New York Times Notable Book A San Francisco Chronicle Best Book of the Year In her astonishing new book Susan Casey captures colossal, ship-swallowing waves, and the surfers and scientists who seek them out.   For legendary surfer Laird Hamilton, hundred foot waves represent the ultimate challenge. As Susan Casey travels the globe, hunting these monsters of the ocean with Hamilton’s crew, she witnesses first-hand the life or death stakes, the glory, and the mystery of impossibly mammoth waves. Yet for the scientists who study them, these waves represent something truly scary brewing in the planet’s waters. With inexorable verve, The Wave brilliantly portrays human beings confronting nature at its most ferocious.

In this moving personal account of faith and fortitude, internationally ranked surfer Bethany Hamilton tells how she survived a shark attack that cost her arm--but not her spirit.They say Bethany Hamilton has saltwater in her veins. How else could one explain the passion that drives her to surf? How else could one explain that nothing—not even the loss of her arm—could come between her and the waves? That Halloween morning in Kauai, Hawaii, Bethany responded to the shark’s stealth attack with the calm of a girl with God on her side. Pushing pain and panic aside, she began to paddle with one arm, focusing on a single thought: “Get to the beach....” And when the first thing Bethany wanted to know after surgery was “When can I surf again?” it became clear that her spirit and determination were part of a greater story—a tale of courage and faith that this soft-spoken girl would come to share with the world. Soul Surfer is a moving account of Bethany’s life as a young surfer, her recovery after the attack, the adjustments she’s made to her unique surfing style, her unprecedented bid for a top showing in the World Surfing Championships, and, most fundamentally, her belief in God. It is a story of girl power and spiritual grit that shows the body is no more essential to surfing—perhaps even less so—than the soul.

Lonely Planet Explores The World's Most Righteous Spots For Riding Waves In Epic Surf Breaks, The Latest Addition To Its Popular Epic Series. From Java's G-land To Hawaii's North Shore And On To Bells Beach In Victoria, Australia, Surfers Of All Levels Are Sure To Be Thrilled. With Stunning Photography And Gripping First Hand Accounts, There's No Denying This Ride Will Be Epic.

Blue Is The Debut Graphic Novel Of Australian Cartoonist Pat Grant. Part Autobiography, Part Science Fiction, Blue Is The Story Of Three Spotty Teenagers Who Skip School To Go Surfing, Only To End Up Investigating Rumors Of A Dead Body In Their Beach Town. At A Deeper Level, It Is An Exploration Into Australia's Acceptance And Resentment At Migrant Culture, Territorialism And Casual Racism Through The Eyes Of These Three Adolescents In A Partly Fictional Town Named Bolton. --paraphrased From Amazon.com.

Winner Of The Pulitzer Prize For Biography 2016 Winner Of The 2016 William Hill Sports Book Of The Year Prize Surfing Only Looks Like A Sport. To Devotees, It Is Something Else Entirely: A Beautiful Addiction, A Mental And Physical Study, A Passionate Way Of Life. William Finnegan First Started Surfing As A Young Boy In California And Hawaii. Barbarian Days Is His Immersive Memoir Of A Life Spent Travelling The World Chasing Waves Through The South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa And Beyond. Finnegan Describes The Edgy Yet Enduring Brotherhood Forged Among The Swell Of The Surf; And Recalling His Own Apprenticeship To The World's Most Famous And Challenging Waves, He Considers The Intense Relationship Formed Between Man, Board And Water. Barbarian Days Is An Old-school Adventure Story, A Social History, An Extraordinary Exploration Of One Man's Gradual Mastering Of An Exacting And Little-understood Art. It Is A Memoir Of Dangerous Obsession And Enchantment.

Surfboards Were Once Made Of Wood And Shaped By Hand, Objects Of Both Cultural And Recreational Significance. Today Most Surfboards Are Mass-produced With Fiberglass And A Stew Of Petrochemicals, Moving Or Floating Billboards For Athletes And Their Brands, Emphasizing The Commercial Rather Than The Cultural. Surf Craft Maps This Evolution, Examining Surfboard Design And Craft With 150 Color Images And An Insightful Text. From The Ancient Hawaiian Alaia, The Traditional Board Of The Common People, To The Unadorned Boards Designed With Mathematical Precision But Built By Hand By Bob Simmons, To The Store-bought Longboards Popularized By The 1959 Surf-exploitation Movie Gidget, Board Design Reflects Both Aesthetics And History. The Decline Of Traditional Alaia Board Riding Is Not Only An Example Of A Lost Art But Also A Metaphor For The Disintegration Of Traditional Culture After The Republic Of Hawaii Was Overthrown And Annexed In The 1890s. In His Text, Richard Kenvin Looks At The Craft And Design Of Surfboards From A Historical And Cultural Perspective. He Views Board Design As An Exemplary Model Of Mingei, Or Art Of The People, And The Craft Philosophy Of Soetsu Yanagi. Yanagi Believed That A Design's True Beauty And Purpose Are Revealed When It Is Put To Its Intended Use. In Its Purest Form, The Craft Of Board Building, Along With The Act Of Surfing Itself, Exemplifies Mingei. Richard Kenvin ; Edited By Christine Knoke ; Photographs By Ryan Field. Published In Conjunction With The Exhibition Surf Craft: Design And The Culture Of Board Riding, Presented At Mingei International Museum From June 21, 2014, To January 11, 2015. Includes Bibliographical References.

Yvon Chouinard-legendary climber, businessman, environmentalist, and founder of Patagonia, Inc.-shares the persistence and courage that have gone into being head of one of the most respected and environmentally responsible companies on earth.From his youth as the son of a French Canadian blacksmith to the thrilling, ambitious climbing expeditions that inspired his innovative designs for the sport's equipment, Let My People Go Surfing is the story of a man who brought doing good and having grand adventures into the heart of his business life-a book that will deeply affect entrepreneurs and outdoor enthusiasts alike.A newly revised edition of Let My People Go Surfing is available now.

Christina Thompson. The Quest To Understand Who First Settled The Islands Of The Remote Pacific, Where They Came From, How They Got There, And How We Know...--jacket. Includes Bibliographical References (pages 325-348) And Index.

Contents -- Introduction -- The Wave -- Ken Bradshaw -- Trevor Sifton -- Off The Wall -- Mark Foo -- Tom Nellis -- Mark Cunningham -- Mike Stewart -- Little Bits Of History -- Stepping Out -- The Seasoned View -- The Hokule'a -- Darrick Doerner -- The Eddie -- The Last Wave -- Big Wednesday -- Aging Gracefully. Bruce Jenkins.

Tim Winton is Australia’s best-loved novelist. His new work,Breath, is an extraordinary evocation of an adolescence spent resisting complacency, testing one’s limits against nature, finding like-minded souls, and discovering just how far one breath will take you. It’s a story of extremes—extreme sports and extreme emotions.On the wild, lonely coast of Western Australia, two thrillseeking and barely adolescent boys fall into the enigmatic thrall of veteran big-wave surfer Sando. Together they form an odd but elite trio. The grown man initiates the boys into a kind of Spartan ethos, a regimen of risk and challenge, where they test themselves in storm swells on remote and shark-infested reefs, pushing each other to the edges of endurance, courage, and sanity. But where is all this heading? Why is their mentor’s past such forbidden territory? And what can explain his American wife’s peculiar behavior? Venturing beyond all limits—in relationships, in physical challenge, and in sexual behavior—there is a point where oblivion is the only outcome. Full of Winton’s lyrical genius for conveying physical sensation, Breath is a rich and atmospheric coming-of-age tale from one of world literature’s finest storytellers.The Washington Post - Carolyn See[Winton's] produced 11 volumes of novels and short stories, but he lives in western Australia, one of the remotest parts of the world. People don't know about him. They don't know what they're missing…Most coming-of-age novels end on a note of triumph. But Breath is about moving out of your depth, getting in over your head, having your soul damaged beyond repair…But against all this pointless sorrow, there remains the evanescent beauty of the world, and Winton matches that with limitlessly beautiful prose.

Shaun Tomson was at the pinnacle of his professional and personal life-a former world champion surfer, a successful entrepreneur of multimillion dollar clothing brands and an inspirational speaker-when his fifteen-year-old son, Mathew, died in a tragic accident. Drawing on the strength of lessons learned from his childhood in apartheid South Africa to competition in the world's most dangerous waves, Tomson provides an inspirational account of facing life's hardest challenges by looking toward the light that shines ahead. Tomson tells a story of terrible loss and miraculous rebirth. Surfer's Code reveals that the lessons of a life spent surfing are the lessons of surfing through life: every moment holds the possibility of failure and tragedy, every moment the promise of success and happiness. SHAUN TOMSON was born in Durban and went on to become one of the world's best surfers. He competed on the Pro Tour for 16 years, winning 19 professional events including the World Title. During his competitive career he was at different stages both the youngest and oldest surfer to win a professional event. Tomson was listed as one of the 25 most influential surfers of the century (Surfer 1999) and one of the 16 greatest surfers of all time (Surfing 2004). He is a business finance graduate from the University of Natal, and has created two successful multimillion-dollar clothing brands: Instinct in the '80s and Solitude in the '90s. PATRICK MOSER has written articles for The Surfer's Journal and Surfer. He edited Pacific Passages: An Anthology of Surf Writing and is currently Associate Professor of French at Drury University in Springfield, Missouri, where he teaches a course on the history and culture of surfing.

If Only Life Could Be Like Surfing! Having Funny Hair And Being Embarrassed In School Is Hard, But When Little Surfer Mop Studies The Lessons Of The Waves--breathing, Letting The Bad Waves Go By, And Riding The Good Ones--he Learns How To Bring The Mindfulness And Joy Of Surfing Into His Whole Life. Celebrated San Francisco Surfer-journalist-dad Jaimal Yogis Teaches 4-8 Year Olds Timeless Beach Wisdom With The Story Of Mop, A Sensitive And Fun-loving Kid Who Just Wants To Be In The Ocean. Going To School And Navigating Classmates Can Be Hard--but All That Goes Away When Little Surfer Mop Paddles Out In The Waves. With A Few Tips From His Clever Mom, Mop Studies The Wisdom Of The Water And Learns To Bring It Into His Life On Land: Taking Deep Breaths, Letting The Tough Waves Pass, And Riding The Good Ones All The Way. With Newfound Awareness And Courage, Mop Heads Back To Land--and School--to Surf The Waves Of Life. With Stylish Full-color Beachy Illustrations From Cover To Cover.

This volume contains "Typhoon," "The Secret Sharer," "Falk," and "Amy Foster." "Typhoon", a story of a steamship and her crew beset by a tempest, is a masterpiece of descriptive virtuosity and moral irony, while "The Secret Sharer" excels in symbolic ambiguity. Both stories vividly present Conrad's abiding preoccupation with the theme of solidarity, challenged from without by the elements and from within by human doubts and fears. Conrad's experiences as a captain of the ship Otago in 1888 provided material for both "The Secret Sharer" and "Falk". "Amy Foster", written in 1901, is bleak and stark in its depiction of human isolation and incomprehension. In a range of tones extending from the sombre to the radiant, Conrad's central preoccupations are displayed at their best, strangest, and most plangent in this selection of stories. About the Series: For over 100 years Oxford World's Classics has made available the broadest spectrum of literature from around the globe. Each affordable volume reflects Oxford's commitment to scholarship, providing the most accurate text plus a wealth of other valuable features, including expert introductions by leading authorities, voluminous notes to clarify the text, up-to-date bibliographies for further study, and much more.

From the New York Times bestselling author of The Cartel, The Force, and The BorderIn Savages, Don Winslow introduced Ben and Chon, twenty-something best friends who risk everything to save the girl they both love, O. Among the most celebrated literary thrillers, Savages was a Top 10 Book of the Year selection by Janet Maslin in The New York Times and Stephen King in Entertainment Weekly.Now, in this high-octane prequel to Savages, Winslow reaches back in time to tell the story of how Ben, Chon, and O became the people they are. Spanning from 1960s Southern California to the recent past, The Kings of Cool is a breathtakingly original saga of family in all its forms—fathers and sons, mothers and daughters, friends and lovers. As the trio at the center of the book does battle with a cabal of drug dealers and crooked cops, they come to learn that their future is inextricably linked with their parents’ history. A series of breakneck twists and turns puts the two generations on a collision course, culminating in a stunning showdown that will force Ben, Chon, and O to choose between their real families and their loyalty to one another.

Medina Mason is a defiant, awkward newcomer to the affluent beach community of Palos Verdes, California. As her parents' marriage disintegrates and her beloved brother falls prey to the temptations of drugs and the lunacy of their mother, Medina surfs to survive, finding a bitter solace in the rough comfort of the waves. This is the moving story of growing up different, of the love between siblings, and of one girl's power to save herself.David L. UlinAt first glance, Joy Nicholson's debut novel, The Tribes of Palos Verdes, seems like just another coming-of-age story. Narrated by Medina Mason, a high school misfit who moves to the exclusive Southern California community of Palos Verdes only to watch her family disintegrate, it deals with all the familiar themes of disconnected youth: drugs, sex, social problems and the sense of living at right angles to the rest of the world. I'm almost fourteen, the book begins, already in trouble at school, already been kissed. Yet as The Tribes of Palos Verdes develops, Nicholson makes Medina's concerns fresh. In seeking a place for her protagonist in the world, she has discovered a brand new territory where adolescence leads nowhere and remains its own immutable state of being. Nicholson's evocation of character, her ability to bring Medina fully and incontrovertibly to life, makes this work. She writes with a snapshot immediacy, portraying the details of Medina's existence as the character would see them -- superficial surfaces with only the barest connection to what she feels inside. Throughout the novel, Medina is transfigured by only one thing, surfing, which she uses to escape the petty degradations she must face each day. These include the abuse of her classmates, but most of her troubles arise from her family, especially her mother and her twin brother, Jim, who, although initially the better adjusted, soon falls into disassociation and despair. As Medina reflects late in the book, He doesn't even try to stand up now. He is accustomed to falling ... He says 'Fuck.' Then he says nothing for an hour. Nicholson explores the fascinating bond between Medina and Jim with unsentimental tenderness, capturing the ambivalence between them as well as the love. Jim's disintegration, however, seems contrived in places, less a function of organic storytelling than a desire to move the narrative along. Nicholson's fixed voice reveals the manifestations of Jim's madness without ever illustrating the progression of his disease. But Jim's breakdown is peripheral to the true concerns of the book, in which plot is somehow secondary to mood. In the end, when Nicholson uses Jim as a metaphor for everything that's wrong with Palos Verdes, it seems like she's stretching to find a frame. For all that, though, The Tribes of Palos Verdes is a fine first effort. In Medina, Nicholson has created a new kind of coming-of-age heroine, isolated yet secure, and complicated in the manner of real life. The book's flaws -- the result of Nicholson's hesitance to trust her instincts, to let her story simply take its form -- are the sort that tend to resolve themselves with experience, which makes her a writer to keep in mind. -- Salon

The author of The Encyclopedia of Surfing returns with this definitive anthology of the best-ever writing about surfing, illustrated with classic and cutting-edge photographs and artwork. Hip and eclectic, the collection speaks to surfing's widespread and longstanding appeal: from Mark Twain's nineteenth-century description in Roughing It to Susan Orlean's essay on girl surfers in Maui and Tom Wolfe's The Pump House Gang.This anthology covers it all-from early surfing literature to descriptions of the sport's most colorful characters, from hair-raising tales of big-wave surfing to an exploration of surf culture. Includes contributions by:R. Crumb, Daniel Duane, William Finnegan, Rick Griffin, Frederick Kohner, Jack London, Herman Melville, Susan Orlean, Charles Schulz, Mark Twain, and Tom Wolfe

The Author Examines His Own Fears While Exploring The Complicated Spectrum Of Why We Feel Afraid: Fear Of Loss, Fear Of Not Being Good Enough, Fear Of Being Trapped In The Wrong Job, Fear Of Not Being Able To Realize Our Dreams, Fear Of Pain, And Ultimately, Fear Of Our Own Mortality--dust Jacket Flap. How I Got Here -- Of Fright And Courage : A Tale Of Two Brains -- In Praise Of Movement -- Know Your Monsters -- The Good, The Bad, And The Brain -- Practice, Practice, Practice -- Hello Darkness, My Old Friend -- Feel-good Fear -- Investigating The Elephant's Footprint -- The Paradox Of Having A Big Head. Jaimal Yogis. Includes Bibliographical References.

From the bestselling author of Savages (now an Oliver Stone film).As cool as its California surfer heroes, Don Winslow delivers a high velocity, darkly comic, and totally righteous crime novel.Every morning Boone Daniels catches waves with the other members of The Dawn Patrol: four men and one woman as single-minded about surfing as he is. Or nearly. They have "real j-o-b-s"; Boone, however, works as a PI just enough to keep himself afloat. But Boone's most recent gig-investigating an insurance scam—has unexpectedly led him to a ghost from his past. And while he may have to miss the biggest swell of his surfing career, this job is about to give him a wilder ride than anything he's ever encountered. Filled with killer waves and a coast line to break your heart, The Dawn Patrolwill leave you gasping for air.

Six–time world surfing champion, actor, and US heart–throb Kelly Slater tells of the struggles and triumphs he's experienced throughout his life and how they have helped him to become one of the world's most loved sports figures.From beach blanket bingo to Baywatch, surfing has fascinated people for years, and Kelly Slater is the sport's newest star. He's one of the world's most popular surfers; his radical moves have revolutionised the sport. Born in Cocoa Beach, Florida, in 1972, he found surfing to be a great way to escape problems at home. When he was 11, his parents divorced. Slater and his brother, Sean, were raised by their suddenly single mother, who struggled to support two young sons. After Slater's surfing career took off, he made the transition into acting and modelling. He spent a season starring on the popular television show Baywatch, where he won the hearts of women young and old, including Pamela Anderson, whom he dated for about a year. He has also been featured in Versace ads. In Pipe Dreams, he shares the stories that have influenced his life and have inspired him to overcome both personal and professional hurdles and achieve his dreams. Publishers Weekly Because six-time world champion surfer Slater has been perhaps the dominant figure in the sport since the 1990s-combining "freakish freesurfing and a vision for bringing his act on the pro tour without toning it down"-it is surprising that his autobiography is so pedestrian. Slater recounts growing up with a turbulent home life in the fading Florida surf community of Cocoa Beach, winning his first world championship in 1992 at age 20 as the youngest men's champ in history, retiring in 1998 after winning his sixth world title and his recent comeback. Slater has many lively stories to tell, about his friendships with the many great surfers at the famous "Pipeline" area of Oahu, his run-ins with surfing groupies and his ill-fated role in the TV series Baywatch. He has plainspoken insights into his world, such as the egos found on the world tour circuit, the change in style from long boards to the "new school" of short boards and how many great surfers "fail to grasp the system" of professional competitions well enough to reach their full potential. Unfortunately, this is a relentlessly detailed book, written in a fairly simple and direct style, describing almost every surfing competition Slater has been in since his first one when he was six years old. While Slater's many fans will enjoy reading that "[I] surfed one of the best heats of my life in the quarterfinals of the Marui Pro at Hebara Beach" in 1992, the average reader looking for insights into the world of surfing will find this book tougher going. (Aug.) Forecast: Slater is still an extremely popular surfer whose fans will love this book, while his involvement with the popular surfer-turned-singer Jack Johnson has brought his name to a new audience. But this book will be too detailed to capture the interest of a wider audience. Copyright 2003 Reed Business Information.

NATIONAL BOOK AWARD FINALIST A reissue of the classic novel that inspired the movie Point Break and pioneered a genre. People go to Huntington Beach in search of the endless parties, the ultimate highs, and the perfect waves. Ike Tucker has come to look for his missing sister and for the three men who may have murdered her. In that place of gilded surfers and sun-bleached blonds, Ike’s search takes him on a journey through a twisted world of crazed Vietnam vets, sadistic surfers, drug dealers, and mysterious seducers. He looks into the shadows and finds parties that drift toward pointless violence, joyless vacations, and highs you may never come down from . . . and a sea of old hatreds and dreams gone bad. And if he’s not careful, his is a journey from which he will never return.

Tim Winton.